By WENDY DRIVER

Hypnotic Djemma el Fna square in the heart of old Marrakech continues to be the city's shopping and foodie hub


It was 5am and still dark when I awoke with a start to the sound of hypnotic wailing. It was more than 30 years since I had last visited Morocco as a young backpacker and I had forgotten about the muezzin's call to prayer that rouses you from sleep every morning. Back in the Seventies there were few hotels within the old walled city of Marrakech, but now I was staying in the heart of the medina.

La Maison Arabe is situated opposite the Bab Doukkala mosque. From the outside it seems a fairly nondescript building, but step inside and you'll find yourself in a beautifully converted traditional home.

The rooms surround a small, open-air courtyard where rose petals float in a fountain and crimson bougainvillea clings to the ornate balcony.

Filigree lanterns cast a glow over the wonderfully carved wood-panelled corridors and rooms are decorated with hand-crafted furnishings and woven rugs.

My room had a private rooftop terrace with its own Jacuzzi where I could quite happily have spent the day relaxing, but after breakfast beside the pool I joined my guide, Rasheed, to explore the city.

It is easy to see why Marrakech has long attracted writers, artists and designers. French couturier Pierre Balmain lived here in the Thirties and his pink Art Deco riad has been converted into one of the city's top fusion restaurants, Dar Moha.


Arabian delight: The El Badi Palace in Marrakech (left) is a slice of 16th century wonder. Prepare to step back in time and immerse yourself in Morocco's traditional arts and music


The Majorelle Gardens, which fashion designer Yves St Laurent bought in the Eighties, are full of vibrant colours. Yellow and orange pots line the tiled walkways and his cobalt-blue villa overlooks lily ponds where tiny turtles bask in the sun.

One of my favourite places is the El Badi Palace, once the glittering centrepiece of the Saadian dynasty in the 16th Century. All that remains today are the massive ramparts which still tower over the city. I climbed the steep steps to the parapet, where storks guarded their nests, looking out over the flat roofs to the hazy mountains beyond.


A big souk-cess: Marrakech's souks hold endless wonders for shopaholics


After being scrubbed all over with black soap until my skin peeled off like a chameleon's, I was pummelled with argane oil, which purportedly nourishes your skin and hair.

It certainly did the trick. By the time dinner was served, I felt totally revived. The house speciality was a delicious lamb tagine with mandarins and caramelised aubergine.

I learned more about Moroccan cuisine when I joined a group cookery course at the hotel. Chef Aya Dada showed me how to braise spices, chicken and vegetables in the same clay pot before eating out of it. It definitely saves on the washing-up.

Next day, leaving behind the bustle of Marrakech, I set off for a retreat in the High Atlas mountains. The Kasbah du Toubkal is only a 90-minute drive from the city, but it's hard to imagine a more remote location. It was originally the fortress of a feudal lord and has been painstakingly restored. Standing high above the village of Imlil, it is accessible only on foot, so we piled our luggage on to a mule and hiked up through the walnut trees to the carved wooden entrance.

Kasbah du Toubkal is run by Berbers and profits are invested in the local community. Lahcen, the receptionist, dressed in the ubiquitous blue djellaba, was there to welcome us.

'We treat guests as personal friends,' he said as he sprinkled our hands with rosewater and offered us dates dipped in goat's milk in traditional greeting. No wonder Paul McCartney, Will Smith and Jude Law have all chosen to stay here.


Rock the Kasbah: Kasbah Du Toukal is an elegant retreat in the High Atlas mountains


My group passed goatherds and heavily laden donkeys before scrambling up through Scots pines and across deep moraines with boulders the size of houses. Stopping for a rest on the summit, we looked down on the lush green terraces of barley far below.

On our last morning we woke to find snow had fallen during the night. The massive flanks of Toubkal had been transformed into walls of shimmering white ice.

As I said goodbye to Lahcen, I turned for a final glimpse, promising myself I wouldn't wait so long before coming back to Morocco.
And next time I'll remember to pack the ear plugs.


Travel Facts
Expedia (0871 226 0808, www.expedia.co.uk) offers return flights with easyJet from Gatwick to Marrakech from £175. Chauffeur-driven transfers to London airports can be arranged through No 1 Traveller (08442 646440, www.No1Traveller.com). It also offers admission to airport lounges, including Gatwick North from May 2011.
Nightly B&B rates for double rooms at La Maison Arabe start at £140 and at the Kasbah de Toubkal £135. To book, visit www.morocco-gateway.com.
For donations to the Kasbah du Toubkal charity, visit www.efamorocco.org.


source :dailymail