By PAUL WHYLES

Land ahoy: Passengers are given the chance to shake off their sea legs as the QM2 sails in to New York


The discreet invitation was left at our stateroom door. The Master of the Queen Mary 2 would be pleased to welcome us to the ship's bridge. Our family party was aboard the QM2, bound for New York, to celebrate my mother-in-law's 80th birthday. The invitation, though a welcome surprise, was probably just a standard procedure, we thought. Perhaps our names had been chosen at random. How wrong we were.

'A little bird tells me it is someone's birthday,' boomed Commodore Bernard Warner as he welcomed us to the hushed high-tech sanctum of the QM2's bridge, high above the giant liner's 14 decks. And with that, mum-in-law Gay was ushered in, the Master's cap was placed upon her incredulous head and Commodore Warner posed beaming alongside her as she nervously grasped the great ship's surprisingly small steering wheel.

That evening after the usual impeccable dinner in the Britannia restaurant, an enormous cake appeared as if by magic as staff briefly gathered around our table to sing Happy Birthday.

They are good at guest relations, Cunard. But then, as one of the world's oldest cruise lines, they have had plenty of practice.

In the golden age of transatlantic sea travel, the greatest personalities of the day, from world leaders to movie stars, sipped champagne at black-tie soirees and strolled the graceful promenades of Cunard ships. And much of that glorious tradition is alive and well today.

Dinner every evening was a major event, including three black-tie formal affairs, with waiters hovering and the ship's photographers prowling to capture the happy shipmates. And then there were the masked ball, the black and white ball and cocktail parties of all descriptions.

All that delicious excess led me to the jogging deck - the longest at sea - in the early morning, and I soon discovered the ship's gym, superbly equipped with every manner of machine designed to help you shed the accumulating calories.

Other onboard facilities included a theatre, planetarium, casino, library, cinema, spa, pools, ballroom, nightclub, pub, bars and numerous food venues to see you through from breakfast to a midnight buffet.

In the past, Cunard ships held the Blue Riband for the fastest Atlantic crossings, some completing the 3,000 miles in well under four days. Today, Cunard's QM2 takes a more leisurely seven days, extending the time frame in which the guests can enjoy the many delights the vast ship has to offer.

In the spa, you can treat yourself to everything from a celebratory cut and blow-dry, to a 'total transformation' facial, deep-tissue massage, or a full set of nail acrylics.

A visit to the Royal Court Theatre was a joy, ranging from young RADA actors providing a cut-down version of The Taming Of The Shrew, to the ship's theatre company's spectacular song-and-dance routines.


Fine dining: Paul, wife Debbie and mother-in-law Gay in one of the ship's many resturants


And one bonus on our crossing was the presence of the Juilliard Jazz Quintet, ubercool and enormously talented musicians from New York, whose music made such compulsive listening, it was impossible to get within sitting distance of wherever they were playing.

Cunard capitalise on their years of tradition, no more so than in their silver-service afternoon teas, when dainty sandwiches and cakes are served by attentive white-gloved waiters, and each evening's ballroom dancing, where charming and impeccably behaved ' gentlemen hosts' are on hand to whisk unaccompanied ladies around the floor.

On the night we tried out the nightclub, they were playing music from the Sixties and Seventies, which was enough to inspire a few silver sailors to fling off their DJs and jig with wild abandon.



Cap'N Gay: Paul's mother-in-law takes the wheel, watched by Commodore Warner


When the non-stop partying grew a little wearying, we could always retire to the comforts of our stateroom, equipped like a luxury hotel room, with 24-hour room service, drinks bar and daily fresh fruit. Our stewardess ensured the cabin was always immaculate.

It can become quite addictive, this Cunard cruising. At the World Club party for veteran Cunard passengers (I attend courtesy of mum-in-law, herself a seasoned Cunarder), the biggest round of applause was reserved for an American lady of a certain age who has spent an astonishing 3,500 nights on board - that's nearly ten years of luxury life afloat!

The daily lectures were a source of rich learning. We were treated to a maritime historian's illustrated tales of adventure and piracy on the high seas and an art expert's guide to the landmark statues and sculptures we would find upon arriving in NYC.

We reluctantly stepped off the mighty ship to shake off our sea legs and seek out a long-dreamed-of horse and carriage ride through Central Park for our celebrating octogenarian. But magical though that proved to be, in truth Commodore Warner had already capped it.

And excellent customer service pays off, of course. With Cunard's new liner Queen Elizabeth having made her maiden voyage last month, M-I-L is already studying the new ship's cruise schedule.

Getting there
From 2011, Queen Mary 2's Atlantic crossings will be seven nights long and there will be 21 of them during the year. Southampton to New York fares start from £949pp and include a return flight. Call 0845 071 0300 or visit www.cunard.co.uk.


source: dailymail