By CAROLINE HENDRIE

Arles be back: The first century Roman amphitheare in Arles is one of the highlights of the Rhone valley


One minute, ten thousand golden sunflowers were nodding gently at me from their field, the next a flurry of white doves landed on the ramparts of a fortress. The early-morning views from my bed were so entrancing it was hard to get up. Then, suddenly, I was plunged into darkness.

It was as if a concrete curtain had been drawn across the windows of my cabin. Iron doors clanged shut and we were entombed in an enormous lock. In the five minutes or so it took to rise gently to the top, I was up and ready for another glorious day on the Rhone.

Over the six days I was on board, from Arles to Lyons, we passed through a dozen such Brutalist monsters, including the lock at Bollene built in 1952 and, at 75ft, until recently the deepest in Europe.

Our boat, Avalon Scenery, was 360ft from prow to stern and 36ft wide, built to fit France's waterways in 2008. There were 75 sleek and comfortable cabins, a vast sun deck and airy public rooms. My cabin was one of the majority with French balconies - a joy to retreat to when the sun was at its hottest.

Despite our boat's great size, we always moored right in the centre of things, and every day a walking tour with a local guide was included. In Arles we sat in the awe-inspiring, 26,000-seat, 1st Century Roman arena and heard about the Provencal version of bull-fighting that takes place there nowadays, where young men snatch rosettes from the bulls' horns.

A stroll through the medieval streets of Viviers, meanwhile, ended with a delightful organ recital in the Gothic cathedral. Afternoon excursions by coach, costing about £40, were offered too. A highlight was the visit to the beautiful former monastery and gardens of St-Paul de Mausole, the asylum near St-Remy where Van Gogh produced many famous works.

In several towns we stayed overnight or sailed at midnight, giving us a real flavour of France. At Viviers we joined the locals at a guinguette - an open-air bar with dancing to live music on the river bank. In Avignon we dined en plein air beneath the golden walls of the illuminated 14th Century Popes' Palace.

Sailing times that allowed dinner ashore were a bonus. While the boat's dining room offered a range of dishes, expertly cooked, the cuisine was international and all provisions were delivered weekly by lorry from Germany.

Opportunities to taste regional specialities came in the afternoons, at tasting sessions. We fell upon the coarse Ardeche pate, saucisson sec, mild goats' cheese and pastries. Some found the salty Roquefort and aniseedy yellow Pastis two new flavours they could live without, but we all appreciated the chocolates from the Valrhona factory in Tain l'Hermitage.

More authentic colour was added with after-dinner entertainments. Gipsy guitarists (rumoured to be related to local stars The Gipsy Kings) came aboard at Avignon, and in Lyons we heard classic French songs.

It was a most enjoyable way of discovering south-eastern France. The leisurely pace and long stops allowed me to shop and explore alone without missing the interesting guided walks. But most of all I loved afternoons gliding noiselessly along the Rhone, passing meadows of long-horned cows, steeply terraced vineyards, tiny hamlets, castles on crags - and emerging into the sunlight from cavernous locks.


Travel Facts

Saga Holidays (0800 056 5880, www.sagaholidays.co.uk) offers seven-night Flavours Of Burgundy And Provence river cruises aboard Avalon Scenery from £1,824. The price includes travel by Eurostar and TGV, transfers, UK travel service, travel insurance, five excursions and full-board plus wine, beer or soft drinks with dinner.


source: dailymail